In general, the water should be between ½ and ¾ up the skimmer opening(s) so as not to take in any air at all from the pool! Plenty of water, outlet is working and hose is kink free and laying flat. The first problem (bubbles in return stream) is a pain, but the second is a disaster for your pool, expensive, and may cause issues that will require the attention of a pool professional. I've had my pool now for 7 days.. This seems to only happen when the creepy-crawly is connected as well. Then, if there is no issue there, inspect to see if there is any movement to the plumbing that enters the pump. What causes pump surging? If there is a sizeable enough leak here you’ll see the dye leave the wall of the skimmer through cracks in it. (Hayward Super 2) The pump start out fine and the pressure on the filter appears to remain steady, but the pump seams to momentarily lose prime, flows back, then again reprimes and flows forward for a short time then the sequence repeats. One of the best ways to discover potential damage to your pool pump is by noticing excessive vibrations. There are several reasons why your pump may randomly shut off—a behavior known as "pump tripping." In some cases, it will be a clog of leaves or gum tree spiky balls, or acorns – and you may know this if you were just … Only difference I can tell is my bucket is city water and pool is covered in rain water. The electricity to the pool pump itself is disconnected (else it always runs) for now, will be reconnected once the pool is full. It keeps triggering the high-pressure cut-off on the outdoor unit. This may be found using pool leak detection dye (pre-loaded in small syringes) which is slowly squirted into the skimmer while the pump is turned off. If this is the case, then you will either need to patch the cracks with a quality epoxy that works underwater, or replace the skimmer completely. At this point, the pool cleaning process can't keep up with the dirt or debris buildup. It seems plain then that the bubbles are probably indicative of one or more holes in the creepy's pipe where the pipe floats outside of the water. The pump has one job – that is to pull the water (in the case of an in-ground pool) and push it through the filter, lines and any other equipment back into the pool. This is why it is very important to make sure that you do not have air in your system, and if you do to remedy it soon before it becomes a big problem! Common Causes of Well Pump Short Cycling Loss of Air Charge. Don't have a skimmer that I know of. What is more problematic is when large amounts of air, in the form of bubbles, continually stream out of the return(s), and the water level barely fills the trap of the pump while running. The outlet pipe is diverted such that water pumps into the pool via 2 points; the normal outlet thats built into the side of the pool under the water and the 2nd is a water feature that has the water cascade over rocks and such. An extended period of time where the filter isn't cleaned will cause it to clog. My problem is that the well pump motor overheats and cuts out after about half an hour of watering. It is not uncommon for pumps with heat damage to run for a few days, up to a year or more, before they finally deteriorate to the point that you will need a new pump. I also hope it's a ground fault circuit, too. Source: am a chemical engineer and deal with this on the industrial scale. Make sure the water level in the pool is high enough so it can flow into the skimmers. Then its off the rest of the day. The pool is at the same level when the pump shuts off at night and in the morning. This can only truly be checked by means of a pressurization test to see if the line holds air pressure and should be checked by a professional pool service company. So, here's my issue... My pump has been running about 11 psi and working fine. And remember that it’s best to replace these parts rather than attempting to fix the situation with epoxy or other such band-aids. The latter job is far more involved, expensive and usually requires ripping up the concrete deck to remove the skimmer. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast, More posts from the swimmingpools community. The pulsating flow is caused by pump cavitation. The pump might realize it's attached to a 230v line and is protecting itself from being fried. Anything from a cracked lid to a split or overstretched o-ring could be causing air to enter here, especially since suction is strongest right there at this point. Why does my heat pump keep triggering the high-pressure cut-off? If this is the case, would the pulsating flow not be evident regardless of what setting the pump is on? Getting to the root of the problem is the first step in fixing it. My spa is draining down about 4 t0 5 inches each night. 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